Day 7 – 8 Neustadt – Hinterholz(Black Forest)
We left Neustadt early on the Tuesday morning, with no real plan, other than to drive to Baden-Baden and pick up the Bundesstrasse B500. This tourist road, built in the 1930’s takes you south from Baden-Baden, through a 2.5km tunnel, it then climbs over the high ground that dominates the north of the Black Forest. The road cuts below the highest point at Hornisgrinde at a height of about 1000m. So to give that some perspective, the road at it’s highest point is just a bit lower than Mt Snowdon. It’s fairly underused, although the pace of life picks up in the winter as the cross-county skiers arrive en-masse. The Chucklebus dealt with the road admirably, although the new set of rear brake pads we had fitted prior to the trip had an opportunity to bed in on the way down! Especially when the one “pimmelkopf” on the road…a middle-aged brit biker, decided at one of the numerous suicidal bends for an overtake. (We saw him later down at the base, I signalled what a good rider he was!)
After climbing over that feature the landscape changed and the area became a mixture of huge swathes of forests interspersed with alpine style villages and pastureland. Beautiful, isolated and peaceful. At this stage we were following the satnav, which took us deeper into the forests, off the main routes…life was getting interesting, lots of switchbacks, hairpins and hill-climbs, all within steep forestry.
Eventually we ended up in a small hamlet called Hinterholz, consisting of two houses, one of which was a stube. http://www.hinterholzstube.de
I spoke to the young fraulein who answered in perfect English. Yes! we could park the van here for €5 per night, with electric, “just park alongside the barn”. Happy days, what a fantastic spot, even the mutts was doing cartwheels, especially when he spotted the goats! It turned out that english-speaking Julia was the niece of Heinz, the proprietor of the pub, a really nice guy, who has the good fortune to live in what many brits would consider to be paradise. We certainly did. Without hesitation we decided this would be our base for the next two nights.
So we’ve spent our time doing some forest walks, glimpsing sight of the occasional deer, and generally chilling out. The weather hasn’t been great, similar to the UK I suppose, although slightly warmer, despite the rain. This evening we are planning on a bratty and a couple of beers at the stube, we still can’t believe our luck in finding this….perhaps this is the norm? We will see as we move further south towards Bavaria over the next few days!
Tomorrow we up sticks and drive south to Meersburg, on the shore of Lake Constance.
Stube Update: For “Essen” this evening. Black Forest dry cured bacon(makes a change from gateau). Also rib steak sausage cutlets. Washed down with ice cold Alpirsbach Bier. Very rustic and very South Germany. The doggy bag is on a full security lockdown until tomorrow.
That is all.